My Windows 11 Experiment

[UtterDisbelief]

Google PSU paperclip trick.

I remember using a link wire between the two ATX cables to keep the PSU "on" all the time and just use the physical power switch. Then I could use all the other cables and connectors to test other hardware components such as drives. The PSU was used in a kind of test-bench scenario.

All got replaced years ago by a small laptop-style power brick with a single molex plug. Maplins if I remember correctly. Still got it.

 

[wstrohm]

Thanks to Pilgrim for the way to test the PS. It is new, OOB, and failed the test. No spinning fan, no AC power consumption. The PS is an Allied model SL-B250SFX 250 watt built-in power supply from my new Apex MI-008 case. Since it is no good, I need to find a replacement of the exact size. Critical dimension is the depth (or height) since this one clears my Noctua NH-L9i-1700 CPU cooler by only about 1 cm. Any suggestions for a replacement?

[Edit: just ordered a Silverstone SFX 300 watt supply from Amazon. Hopefully that will fix my new machine.]

 

[Cosmix]

Thanks to Pilgrim for the way to test the PS. It is new, OOB, and failed the test. No spinning fan, no AC power consumption. The PS is an Allied model SL-B250SFX 250 watt built-in power supply from my new Apex MI-008 case. Since it is no good, I need to find a replacement of the exact size. Critical dimension is the depth (or height) since this one clears my Noctua NH-L9i-1700 CPU cooler by only about 1 cm. Any suggestions for a replacement?

[Edit: just ordered a Silverstone SFX 300 watt supply from Amazon. Hopefully that will fix my new machine.]

Hello,

Here you can find a recommandation for determining the PS to buy .
Of course, there are some other sites to check.

Keep in mind : this is just one of many recommandations.

Cheers

PSU for Intel Core i7-12700F and AMD Radeon RX 6400 | Power Supply Calculator

See what power supply you need for your Intel Core i7-12700F and AMD Radeon RX 6400

www.whatpsu.com

 

[wstrohm]

Cosmix,

Thanks for the link. I chose the Silverstone at Amazon without having done much research. Since I've measured my Skylake Win 11 computer's AC power usage (has a Gigabyte H170N-WIFI mobo and AMD RX 6400 graphics) at about 115 watts average, I think the Silverstone 300W PS should be enough. However I could be wrong; the new RAMs are Crucial CL40 DDR5 that run at 4800 MHz... we'll see. I'll be using the "Kilowatt" AC power meter at first power-on to check idle current and later stressed.

 

[wstrohm]

Well, the new power supply passes the "Google Paperclip PS" test, and when not in the computer case (i.e. no load) it uses about 3.9 watts. When installed in the computer, turning it on at its rear panel switch settles at about 25.1 watts. However, pressing the front panel Pwr On button does nothing... no front panel LED light, no CPU or case fan, no change in AC power usage. It just sits at 25.1 watts... no computer activity I can see. Bummer. I can hear the button engage but there is no reaction.

 

[Feartech]

Well, the new power supply passes the "Google Paperclip PS" test, and when not in the computer case (i.e. no load) it uses about 3.9 watts. When installed in the computer, turning it on at its rear panel switch settles at about 25.1 watts. However, pressing the front panel Pwr On button does nothing... no front panel LED light, no CPU or case fan, no change in AC power usage. It just sits at 25.1 watts... no computer activity I can see. Bummer. I can hear the button engage but there is no reaction.

we used to use a screw driver on the pwr pins on the motherboard to see if the machine would fire up, incase there was an issue with the switch back in the day....

 

[wstrohm]

I'm thinking that the computer should not be pulling an AC power of 25 watts if the front panel Power On switch has NOT been pressed after the PS is set to "ON." I'm guessing that there is an undesired load on the +5 volt bus, but haven't yet been able to check that. One problem could be my installation of the M.2 SSD on the top side of the board. The "thermal pads" are sticky, and if the top part of the heat sink is lowered to trap the SSD, its 3 mounting holes never line up exactly. If the top piece is moved slightly to one them up, the SSD moves with the top piece and could mess up the SSD connections. But I will have to test this later.

 

[wstrohm]

It's now working after stripping out all the internal connections and putting them back... I might have had one of the connectors reversed... not sure. Anyway, although it is software-bare, the front panel button now starts the CPU fan, my added chassis fan, and the "power LED," and with the graphics card in, AC power reads 53.1 watts. That's about right for the graphics card itself, so apparently the other stuff is relatively low-power. However, I do see a yellow LED on the mobo, which indicates a "DRAM" error. Will look into the tomorrow. (The RAM is a 64 GB Crucial kit, a "CL40" DDR5 pair of 32 GB each, and is supposed to run at 4800 MHz.)

 

[wstrohm]

Cleared the "DRAM" error by pushing down on one edge of one DIMM... apparently not quite all the way down. Was able to install MS Windows 11 up to the point where I need to be connected to the Internet. This did not work on my wired Ethernet connection to my modem/router, although the Enet LED is on solid White, and this same connection does work on my Hackintosh at left and also on my "Mini-ITX 2" Slylake Win 11 computer. There must be some magic setting in the ASUS UEFI BIOS that I just cannot find. Any clue where that is? (I did quick-flash the BIOS from the original version 1220 to the latest version 1641, but it made no change.)

 

[Cosmix]

Cleared the "DRAM" error by pushing down on one edge of one DIMM... apparently not quite all the way down. Was able to install MS Windows 11 up to the point where I need to be connected to the Internet. This did not work on my wired Ethernet connection to my modem/router, although the Enet LED is on solid White, and this same connection does work on my Hackintosh at left and also on my "Mini-ITX 2" Slylake Win 11 computer. There must be some magic setting in the ASUS UEFI BIOS that I just cannot find. Any clue where that is? (I did quick-flash the BIOS from the original version 1220 to the latest version 1641, but it made no change.)

Hello,

Re-check BIOS setting regarding networking.( ethernet, wireless )

Re-create the installing USB pen using the "features" of the latest Rufus utility ( vers 4.4 )

Rufus - Create bootable USB drives the easy way

Rufus: Create bootable USB drives the easy way

rufus.ie

Use a Hiren / Linux (live) bootable device (for testing):
https://www.hirensbootcd.org/

Test both your Ethernet ports :